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115. MISSOURI WINE COUNTRY

Hermann, Missouri

7/19/2012

The little town of Hermann was founded by German immigrants in the nineteenth century. The land was bad for farming, but great for vineyards. “Who cares?” Laura and I wondered. We stopped at Stone Hill Winery (it is at the top of a hill with an idyllic view) to find out.

The tour guide informed us that at one time Stone Hill Winery (under a different name) was the third largest winery on earth! I guess Missouri wine used to be a pretty big deal. When Prohibition was passed, federal agents came to destroy the distilleries and tear up the vines. When Prohibition was repealed the town never returned its former glory – although recent entrepreneurs have revived some of the wineries to a healthy degree.

Even though we are non-drinkers, the tour was interesting. One of the cellars is called The Apostle Room because twelve huge barrels (each twelve feet high and as big as a car) with carvings of the Apostles used to sit in alcoves. It took the artist over a decade to complete the ornate carvings, so when Prohibition was passed he attempted to smuggle them out of the country. The barrels were loaded on a train, but when the train arrived the barrels were gone. The artist never recovered them and they are missing to this day.

Another good story was about a local seminary. When the company shut down, one of the distilleries was given to the priests for the making of sacramental wine. When the new proprietors tried to restart Stone Hill, they contacted the priests and discovered they still had it. The company tried to buy it, but the priests insisted they take it for free so it could return to its original home where they felt it belonged.

After the tour was the obligatory wine tasting. We abstained, but the sampler guy emptied a couple of bottles of the non-alcoholic grape juices for us. Very generous of him, since the tour only cost $2.50. It was so good we bought a bottle to take home.

As we drove away, Laura mused about how Prohibition destroyed the livelihoods of an entire town overnight. I think even the sternest teetotaler has to have some empathy for the folks who watched as strangers came to their fields and tore up the vines they had nursed for generations.

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