51. OWENSBORO & HENDERSON

Owensboro & Henderson, Kentucky

6/19/2010

Oh, Patricia! You and your two-for-one entries. Well, since both towns were in a direct line from each other on our trip home, we were able to visit both pretty easily. So there.

First, we stopped in Henderson – home of artist and naturalist John James Audubon. In town is the Audubon State Park, where the man himself studied the birds that became the basis of his famous paintings. They have a nice little museum there that is kid-friendly. They have a few display cases of preserved animals, as well as a few live reptiles in cages – a big hit with Daniel. We would have liked to have explored the park itself a little more, but the 93 degree weather knocked that idea out of our heads.

About 45 minutes east is Owensboro, home of the International Bluegrass Museum. This seemed like an appropriate place to end our trip. It’s a small museum, but admission is only $5 ($4 with AAA) so we didn’t feel ripped off. The man running it (Richard) was very friendly and knowledgeable. He told us he had performed at Bean Blossom himself in previous years, which was kind of neat. In fact, the festival and Bill Monroe were a huge focus of the museum. I guess we didn’t realize the impact of this one man in the music world. I will have to learn more about him.

Daniel probably enjoyed this museum the most. We had the place to ourselves, so he had fun running around hitting the red buttons that played seminal bluegrass recordings.

Before we headed home we had dinner at the Moonlite Bar-B-Q. We tried the Schultz-recommended burgoo – which was sort of a spicy mutton soup. It was really great. It sort of reminded us of Indian food, but apparently it’s a local dish. This place has won a lot of recognition over the years, according to the plaques decorating their lobby – from best bar-b-q in Kentucky to “One of the best 100 restaurants of the 20th Century.” Wow. Not bad for a cheap bar-b-q joint. Highly recommended.

Not a bad way to spend the day. We started off in Illinois, traveled through Indiana and finished our trip by dipping down into Kentucky. According to their road signs that’s “the land of Lincoln”, “Lincoln’s boyhood home,” and “The birthplace of Lincoln.” Hoo boy. Everybody wants a piece of Lincoln, don’t they?

50. WOLF'S BAR-B-Q

Evansville, Indiana

6/19/2010

About 45 minutes east of New Harmony is Wolf’s Bar-B-Q. Pretty lucky for us, since all that running through mazes in 90 degree weather can build up an appetite. Little did we know we would arrive while they were serving a lunch buffet, so we were able to sample a little bit of everything. (Ok. A lot of everything.)

Most of the people there appeared to be regulars, which always makes me feel good. I’m sure it’s obvious at this point that I like it better that way, since it feels like we’re looking in on a good local secret.

The “best” bar-b-q is a matter of subjective taste. For Patricia Schultz, this is it. Laura thought it was great, too. I thought it was good, but the pulled pork Laura makes at home is better. That’s my opinion, anyway.

49. NEW HARMONY

New Harmony, Indiana

6/19/2010

We knew a severe thunderstorm was heading our way, so we made sure to leave Bean Blossom before it hit and head to our hotel for the night – way over in Grayling, Illinois. We stayed at a Super 8 that was only built in 2003 so it was pretty nice. Honestly, the bed was more comfortable than our bed at home! Unfortunately, Daniel had a really hard time dealing with all four of us sleeping together in the same room. The new baby has really shaken up his world.

One minor gripe about the hotel’s location: It is one of the very few hotels near the New Harmony / Evansville area, yet it’s about ten miles from any fast food places. By the time we arrived and checked in we were starving, but there weren’t a lot of options. So, vending machine pop tarts for us.

The next morning we went into New Harmony. The town has two distinct origins. It was originally founded by a religious sect called the Harmonists to prepare for the imminent final judgment. When they got tired of waiting, they left. Then the entire town was purchased by utopian socialist Robert Owen in order to create a perfect, classless community. Yes, a guy who abhorred capitalism had enough cash to buy a whole town.

We started our visit at the Atheneum – which is the local visitor center. It has a cool name because some famous architect designed it.

At the visitor center we learned that for harmonists, labyrinths were a sacred symbol – two of which they built in town. One is called the Cathedral Labyrinth – a reproduction of the Chartres Labyrinth in France. When the visitor center lady explained this to us I pretended like I knew what she was talking about. (Apparently, it’s a famous labyrinth. I didn’t know there were famous labyrinths. In fact, I’m not even sure if I can spell labyrinth.)

I walked the Cathedral Labyrinth, bearing in mind that it was designed as a religious icon for the Harmonists – so I didn’t cheat.

Right down the road from the Cathedral Labyrinth is an unusual building – the Roofless Church. Commissioned by an Owen who we assume is a descendant of Robert, it looked more like a courtyard than a church to fuddy-duddies like us. But, I suppose that’s the point. Definitely a one of a kind church.

Before we left town we made sure to visit the Harmonist Labyrinth – which is an actual hedge maze, like in fairy tales. Laura, the kids, and I worked our way through it and at the center we were rewarded by entering a small, domed structure that is probably best described as a kind of chapel. Very interesting spirituality, these Harmonists. A great experience walking in their footsteps for a moment.

48. BILL MONROE BLUEGRASS FESTIVAL

Bean Blossom, Indiana

6/18/2010

A lot has changed since our last trip. Philip was born on May 27th. Less than a month old and he’s already become the latest victim in our quest across America.

The Bill Monroe Bluegrass Festival is… a bluegrass festival. A big one. In fact, it’s the largest in the US, and held every year in Bean Blossom, Indiana. Well, a bluegrass festival would have to be held in a place called Bean Blossom, wouldn’t it?

After the four hour drive we reached the Bill Monroe Memorial Music Park. (Apparently, Bill Monroe is considered the father of bluegrass.) When we arrived a teenage girl sold us our tickets. She had a nametag that read, “Hello. My name is Hot Legs.” Um… When you’re still wearing braces you might not want to make those kinds of riffs on your nametag. You’re only going to make normal guys feel creepy and creepy guys… do we need to find out?

After we parked, a guy in a golf cart offered to give us a ride up to the outdoor stage. He seemed stoned out of his mind. Laura believes that was just “his look.” We walked.

Ok. The festival. The musicians were awesome. Laura and I know nothing about bluegrass (Daniel and Philip know even less), but they were great performances. It was a very relaxing evening, sitting on folding chairs in the grass, drinking overpriced lemonade and listening to some good tunes.

We got the feeling the acts were well-known to bluegrass aficionados and in between each song the performers spoke in solemn tones about the late Bill Monroe – sentiments that seemed well-appreciated by the audience.

There were a few stands hawking the usual junk, but they were pushed to the back and mostly ignored. It’s very clear that this festival is still all about the music. A lot of fun to listen to – and even more fun watching Daniel tap his feet to the beat.